Road to Glittery

Local fashion brand strives for worldwide attention

By Cathy Lai

What are the ingredients for success in fashion design? Pencil, crayon, paper, creativity and talent? Still something is missing. If you asked Anne Chou 10 years ago, she would have told you that it was her youthful optimism that led her to aspire towards being a fashion designer. But after ten years working as a designer with a personal brand name, she found out that striving for success in the fashion industry is not just about talent.

Fashion design is hardly a preferred career option for Macau graduates. The industry calls for not just good drawing skills but also creativity. Added to that is the perseverance to continue despite failures and harsh criticism.

Recalling the time when she just graduated, Chou was one of the obstinate young people who disregarded all the negative opinions and was eager to establish a boutique of her own. Time flies, with unceasing determination, she is now the founder and the owner of Design Esta, a style and fashion agency based in Macau.

According to Chou, the road for a fashion designer in Macau is pretty rough. “Without proper environmental coordination such as fashion photographers, fabrication, manufactory, transportation, and even professional model,” says Chou, carrying a sense of discontent, “you can only count on the outside help.”

In this regard, to Chou, Macau is almost a desert for fashion industry. “I need to go to mainland China to source for the right fabric and you can’t even find the right cloth in Macau!” she emphasizes.

Despite the difficulties that she faces in Macau, Chou has never considered leaving Macau in search of greener pastures. “My root is in Macau. I have never thought about going to somewhere else.” For this reason, she has a strong determination in introducing Design Esta, as a Brand based in Macau, to the world. According to Chou, not many fashion fraternities in Macau share the same thought with her, referring Macau as their roots.

Though established by Macau people and having their head offices based in Macau, many fashion brands actually did the registration in Hong Kong in order to build an image of “Hong Kong brand”, which sounds more prominent to many people.

As Macau is getting more and more internationalized, the competition is heated. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood, Giorgio Armani…all these renowned international brands are waving their hands at both the tourists and residents in Macau.

According to the sellers in Louis Vuitton Wynn Resort, Macau, with a population size of only 600,000, is the third largest market of exquisite brand. For sure, the tourists are a major contribution. However, the point is, if people are so obsessed with foreign brands, will they actually take a look at the native goods?

“It is important to have customers recognize your design,” Chou emphasizes and she does admit that there is no patriotism in fashion industry since people will not be impressed just because you are a brand from their places. According to her, some of her fraternities actually had experienced the nightmare that their collections of at least 3 seasons failed to attract buyers.

For sure, in order to survive through the wild game, Design Esta, the brand that emphasizes a lot on its origin has its own strategy. “Thanks to the complex historical background of Macau, we are largely exposed to both Western and Eastern culture at the same time,” says Chou.

“Not too Asian, and not too European”, this is how Chou describes her brand’s image. According to her, some trends from Europe may not be suitable for Macau consumers, low-cut wear, a common style in Western Countries, does not work for Macau; army green, rocks every summer in Europe, but hardly interests Macau’s buyers. Therefore, through researching and sourcing, together with the trendiest information grasped in hands, the local brand is able to work out the collections that are unique and wearable for Macau people.

“There is nothing enlightened if a Macau designer becomes famous,” says Chou, “but if a brand established in Macau becomes famous, that that’s really delightful.”

To stand on solid ground and do one’s best; maybe one day, we will see the Macau-based brand glittering on the runway of Paris Fashion Week.